In the heart of London, It’s Bagels brings the beloved flavors of New York to life, blending nostalgia with fresh, quality ingredients, proving that great bagels are worth the journey.
T here are two kinds of people: those who say, ‘a bagel is just a bagel,’ and those who are correct. All bagels are not equal. And if you’ve ever been to New York or New Jersey, USA, you will know what I’m talking about. Some say it’s in the water, some say it’s in the boil, but whatever it is, I’ve been unable to find it anywhere but New York.
Dan Martensen, founder of It’s Bagels, had the same thought. After moving to London from New York in 2019 in a brand-new city with a brand-new child, the pandemic hit. Dan was trying to make a life here, and found himself craving the comfort of a bagel from his hometown. Thus, the idea for It’s Bagels was conceived. From working to perfect the recipe from his own home to selling bagels from a pop-up at Caravan Coffee Roasters, eventually the first location of It’s Bagels was opened in Primrose Hill.
Stepping inside does indeed feel like stepping a continent away. The narrow space, checkered tile floor, retro NYC prints covering the walls, and the soft yellow glow of the deli-style menu are all incredibly reminiscent of a hole-in-the-wall bagel shop in the heart of New York City. You can see the bagels being made fresh through a window in the back of the shop, and the employees hard at work cranking out bagels for an often-long queue of hungry patrons. The only thing that reminds you that you aren’t actually in New York is that the staff are incredibly friendly, happy to take the time to chat with you and laugh with one another.
Highlights:
- Cultural Experience: It’s Bagels recreates the ambiance of a classic NYC bagel shop, complete with checkered floors and retro decor.
- Diverse Menu: Offers a mix of classic and unique bagels, from plain and everything to rainbow and blueberry.
- Signature Items: The Secret Salt Beef sandwich features perfectly balanced flavours, while The Works bagel is a must-try for lox lovers.
- Quality Schmears and Salads: Notable options include dill and jalapeno schmears, along with fresh chicken and tuna salads.
- Friendly Atmosphere: Staff provide exceptional service, creating a welcoming environment that enhances the dining experience.
- Authenticity Debate: While the bagels may not perfectly replicate NYC’s, the focus on homemade toppings and hospitality makes it a worthwhile visit.
Their menu is somehow both extensive and basic at the same time; while they do just offer the staples of bagel cuisine, there is still an abundance of choice. During the week, you get your choice of plain, everything, sesame, salt, garlic, poppy, onion, or cinnamon raisin bagel. If you want to brave the queue on the weekend, you will find rainbow, pumpernickel, egg, and blueberry bagels as well. You can choose from a variety of schmears, salads, or fillings for your sandwich ranging from jalapeno cream cheese to chicken salad to peanut butter and jelly to bacon, egg, and cheese.
I had to try their signature Secret Salt Beef—a NY staple served with Swiss cheese, onions, pickles, mayo, and mustard on my choice of everything bagel. I’m not a big beef fan, but this sandwich was out of this world. Each component seems as though it could be overpowering; pickles, mustard, onions, and salt beef can all be quite pungent. But the flavours all melded beautifully together, and you can taste each individual ingredient, finished by the salty spices of the everything bagel.
The Works bagel was one I almost missed before it was recommended to me, another NYC staple with lox, schmear, capers, onion, lemon, and tomato on my choice of sesame bagel. I’m grateful to manager Matt who told me to order one, because this is not a sandwich to be overlooked. The lox is mild and delicate, the schmear is creamy and tangy, and the capers, onions, and lemon give it a glorious, fresh pop.
In addition to my two sandwiches, I asked for a sampling of schmears and salads to try with a plain bagel. Firstly, the plain bagel is anything but plain. It’s soft and squishy inside with a crispy coating and an ever-so-slight sweetness. My personal favourite was the dill schmear—which tasted exactly how it sounds—fresh and herbaceous. The jalapeno is definitely one to try for those who like spicy things; unfortunately, spicy just isn’t my vibe. All three of the salads were not too heavy on the mayo, which I greatly appreciated. I was most excited to taste the egg salad, but sadly that was the only bite of the day that missed the mark for me. It lacked salt, and the only flavour that came through was the scallion. However, the chicken and tuna both tasted incredibly fresh and real. The tuna was nice and tangy, and the chicken salad was surprisingly peppery, which as a pepper-lover I quite enjoyed.
Now, I must confess. Does an It’s Bagels taste exactly like a true New York bagel? No. Maybe it is in the water, because every bagel I’ve tried elsewhere in the world is just a bit thinner and chewier, missing that quintessential airy fluff of New York. But does that mean you shouldn’t go? Absolutely the heck not. It’s Bagels is not just about the bagels—it’s about the homemade toppings crafted with care. And that, along with a fantastic sense of hospitality, is what makes it worth a trip.
