Gallivanting Among the Dunes

Indulge in exquisite dishes crafted by Masterchef finalist Nico Fitzgerald, featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients.

In the first of a new series of mini break locations, George Shaw heads south in search of sand, spa and seafood and enters immediate holiday mode.

Protected behind the famous dunes at Camber Sands near Rye, The Gallivant offers luxurious and dog-friendly accommodation with the vibe of a large private beach house.  It comprises 20 individually designed bedrooms, a restaurant and bar, outdoor terrace, yoga studio, ecological coastal garden, a beach hut spa – and much more for Londoners looking to escape the metropolis.

Apart from sumptuous meals, a stay at this chic hotel offers a range of day time activities: from morning yoga sessions on the golden sand, bracing sea dips, massages, guided walks, vineyard trips, private tours and revitalising hot toddies in the dunes.

While exceptional culinary delights, exclusively cooked over charcoal, emanate from a talented kitchen led by exec head chef and TV Masterchef finalist Nico Fitzgerald, the tasteful interiors are tempered by a relaxed vibe normally only experienced in the sea air of a smart, uncomplicated holiday resort.

The abundance of premium quality. locally sourced seasonal produce is showcased in a refreshingly short menu.  Two (£25) and three (£35) course fixed price seasonal menus are featured, with options to upgrade. Which we did.

I invited a DFL (down from London) mate who is refurbishing a nearby holiday cottage to join me for dinner.  

Our evening began in the snug with an open fire enjoying a glass of rather good Camber Negroni (£11).

Once seated in the restaurant we began nibbling on toasted sourdough topped with sumptuous seaweed butter (£5) and Maldon oysters (£4 a swallow) and the robust Torched mackerel, with the natural fishy oils perfectly balanced against the sharp pickled gooseberries and a horseradish creme fresh.  

For mains I went for a plump and flaky Skate wing, whose delicate fresh flavour was not overpowered by the brown butter, lemon crispy capers and parsley – accompanied with tenderstem broccoli, chilli dressing (£6).   The DFL opted for a melt-in-the-mouth Pork neck steak in a rich cider and whole grain  mustard sauce plus Jersey potatoes with herbed butter topped with grated Twineham Grange cheese, which comes somewhere between a classic English farmhouse cheddar and Parmesan.

Despite what is claimed to be the world’s largest selection of English wines, at the sommelier’s suggestion we enjoyed a crisp bottle of Andre Scherer Alsace Riesling (£52). And very good it was too.

For pudding I bagged the insanely good dark chocolate cremeux with hazelnuts and sea buckthorn, while DFL made do with its near equal, a Raspberry & peach tart with vanilla ice cream.

Some of the best restaurant food and ambiances I have encountered this year; well-worth the trip.

Overnight stays begin at £165 based on two sharing.  Extensive options include an all-inclusive Bamford Spa Escape at £530 a night and the Gusbourne Ultimate English Wine Experience for £1,045 per couple with a private three-hour tour of Gusbourne.

To get there by car takes about two hours from central London.  The journey by trains from St Pancras to Rye is about an hour.

The Gallivant Camber Sands, New Lydd Road, Camber, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7RB