Succulent Lamb Liver Skewers on a bed of soft flatbread, accompanied by smoky vegetables and tangy red onion sumac salad—a true Anatolian delight.
Mastering Turkish Meze and Kebabs
Yeni Cukurova excels in authentic Turkish cuisine, offering exquisite mezes and perfectly crafted lamb liver kebabs by Master Chef Kazim Gokciler. A must-visit for lovers of rich Anatolian culinary traditions.
W hen navigating the culinary stretch of Green Lanes, one is often overwhelmed by the sheer number of options for Turkish cuisine. However, to the seasoned diner, a kebab is never “just a kebab.” In Turkiye, the craft is defined by a regional rivalry between the cities of Adana and Urfa. While the former is celebrated for its fiery, spicy kick, the latter offers a milder, more subtle flavour profile. In the elite restaurants of Istanbul or Ankara, the mark of quality is whether the master chef hails from one of these two storied regions.
I recently discovered a small, cosy gem called Yeni Cukurova, where the kitchen is commanded by Master Chef Kazim Gokciler. With two decades of experience under his belt—half of which has been spent in the London restaurant scene—Chef Kazim exudes a quiet confidence. “You’ll see the difference when you taste my kebabs,” he told me. He prides himself on the digestibility of his food, asserting that whether the dish is hot or mild, it is prepared with such care that it will not upset the stomach, regardless of the hour it is consumed.
Yeni Cukurova delivers a truly authentic Turkish dining experience with generous, flavourful dishes that showcase the heart and soul of Anatolia.
The experience began with a remarkably generous spread of four large meze plates, served with baskets of steaming hot bread. For those who appreciate the lighter side of Turkish dining, these were a highlight. The hummus was velvety and rich, while the kisir—a vibrant bulgur wheat salad—offered a delightful texture and a refreshing herbal brightness. The selection was rounded off by two distinct yogurt-based mezes; one, as seen in the restaurant’s presentation, was drizzled with a rich, spiced oil that perfectly complemented the cool, tangy dairy. These starters are so substantial that one might easily forget a main course is yet to follow.
Chef Kazim Gokciler’s expertise shines through perfectly prepared dishes, balancing robust flavours and impeccable technique with genuine passion and authenticity.
Despite the tempting chicken options, I opted for a dish that is notoriously difficult to perfect: Lamb Liver (Ciğer). I have long been a devotee of lamb liver, yet finding a version in London that meets the high standards of the Turkish heartlands is a rare feat. Upon ordering the “hot” version, I waited a mere fifteen minutes before the feast arrived.
The presentation was nothing short of magnificent. The dish consists of eight substantial metal skewers (shish) laden with succulent cubes of liver, resting atop a bed of soft, oil-brushed flatbread. The liver was perfectly charred yet tender, providing that elusive savoury depth. It was served alongside blistered green chillies and grilled tomatoes, which added a smoky sweetness to the plate. Perhaps most impressive was the accompaniment of a mountain of red onion salad, heavily dusted with sumac and fresh parsley, providing the necessary acidity to cut through the richness of the meat.
Yeni Cukurova is not the place for a whispered, romantic candlelit dinner; rather, it is a sanctuary for those who are truly hungry and seeking the authentic soul of Turkish cooking. If you wish to spoil your palate with a world-class kebab that honours tradition, Chef Kazim’s kitchen should be your next destination.
