Photo: Legacy’s Eight-Course Tasting Menu: A Tribute to Britain’s Railway Heritage with Exceptional Flavours and Artistic Presentation. Photo by Ben F. Oncu
An Eight-Course Tasting Menu Inspired by 200 Years of Britain’s Railway Heritage
The Grand York’s Legacy restaurant celebrates Britain’s railway heritage with an eight-course tasting menu blending historical inspiration and contemporary flavours. Deft storytelling and culinary artistry make this an unforgettable dining experience.
To celebrate 200 years of the modern railway in Britain, which fundamentally changed all aspects of society, food and travel writer George Shaw headed north for a whistlestop visit to York home to experience fine dining at one of the nation’s favourite Edwardian hotels.
Apart from driving the industrial revolution, allowing mass transportation of goods, people and communication, the first railways were integral to changing the diets of the population. Fresh farm produce came from the countryside city centres and fresh fish from the coast travelled large distances inland to creating the national dish status of ‘Fish & Chips’. I was tempted to make the 2-hour journey from Kings Cross by the prospect of a special Yorkshire railway themed tasting menu curated by the Grand’s Executive Head Kevin Bonello. With an impressive Michelin pedigree, Bonello has amassed a talent brigade with Head Chef, Ahmed Abdalla as his able second-in command at Legacy’s dining room. The evening was nothing short of extraordinary. This was not so much a menu as a narrative told through tasting, threaded by the railway’s influence. Together, they presented an eight-course tasting menu rooted in history but evolved for a contemporary palette. A culinary train ride through taste, memory, and invention.
Image by NewYox Media, inspired by Legacy’s Tasting Menu.
Each course was matched a carefully selected wine to balance and enhance the complexities and layers of taste of the accompanying morsels. The opening salvo, a refined Hash Brown paired with aged Lincolnshire Poacher and lovage, was as comforting as a familiar station stop. Delicate cream fraiche acted as the conductor, harmonizing robust, earthy tones. Whitby Crab Tart followed, bright and bracing with bursts of carrot, avocado, and kalamansi—a flavour detour that felt as daring as a rail journey along sea cliffs. Perhaps the most evocative dish was Milk Bread accompanied by house-made Marmite Butter and whipped Caerphilly cheese. It was nostalgic yet innovative. The spiced tang of Marmite swung the balance daringly, while the cheese provided a creamy, soft-spoken counterpoint. The bread, light yet rich, brought it all together as though connecting disparate destinations. The Orkney Scallop, my personal favourite, was Legacy’s tribute to classical dining. Sweet, oceanic, and decadently paired with sake sabayon, Sturia caviar, and fermented turnip. It was theatre: the vibrant glow of the caviar popping against the velvety scallop matched railway dramas played out on dining car tables across eras past.
The Grand York’s Legacy restaurant creates a stunning culinary homage to railway history, merging elegant design with gourmet brilliance.
Spiced Monkfish, encapsulated an international twist. Thai red curry, rich with coconut- coriander chutney and grapefruit, awakened the palate with bold, punchy flavours reminiscent of how rail networks connected cultures far and wide. Fish, intricate with spice and char, felt deliberate—a locomotive blazing its way forward. One cannot discuss the evening without pausing at the Homage to Windsor Soup, a playful interpretation of this historic dish. Kevin Bonello’s brisket creation, with confit root vegetables and “beef thin tea,” proved as comforting as it was ingenious. It was railway dining romanticized into fine art: warm, hearty, and deeply nostalgic. Each course journeyed deeper into narrative. Smoked Yorkshire Venison Loin came served with a blackberry ketchup and crumpet, all tied together with a rich Grand Veneur sauce. The variety of elements—a crumpet’s humble texture meeting the sophistication of venison—was pure magic. There was elegance, yes, but also an honesty that felt rooted and grounded.
Chef Kevin Bonello’s remarkable creativity and skill deliver a menu steeped in history, marrying nostalgia and innovation with impeccable execution.
The dessert train cruised through two absolutely delightful stops. On Tracks, a honey and rhubarb confection tied to the Grand’s heritage, was lively, light, and ginger-touched. Wrapping up with 21st Century Plum Pudding, featuring a dried fruit sponge, candied peel gel, and custard, was the proverbial last station of decadence—a spirited encore that married tradition to technique with an artful wink. Each plate made evident the level of thought poured into dishes celebrating railway history while still keeping true to Legacy’s identity. Pairings felt deliberate; no texture or flavour out of place. It was clear that the chefs were less concerned about pushing boundaries and more focused on preserving the essence of travel nostalgia, elevated through contemporary craftsmanship. After dining, the experience culminated in a restful evening at The Grand Hotel itself. There’s something poetic about reclining in luxury mere steps away from York’s history—a five-star retreat that feels as timeless as the rails that brought the city fame. Legacy’s celebration of two centuries of railway mastery was nothing short of genius—a journey that didn’t just shift miles north but through the very soul of travel. For anyone seeking to understand the intimate marriage of history and gastronomy, this experienceoffers a voyage worth taking. and Abdalla are engineers as much as they are chefs, pathing rails through the corridors of time, taste, and memory.
The Grand
Set just a few yards from York Station, the impressive structure built in 1906 as the headquarters of the North Eastern Railway (NER), with offices and staff accommodation, the building showcases elegant marble interiors, oak-panelled rooms, and majestic boardroom.
Known as a “Palace of Business”, it housed one of the largest employers in the North, managing over 1,750 miles of track and operating major rail hubs across Yorkshire and the North East. Painstakingly restored to its original splendour, this award-winning 5-star hotel, welcomes visitors with Yorkshire warmth, charm, and character.
The Grand, Station Rise, York, North Yorkshire YO1 6GD
Things To Do in York
National Railway Museum: Discover the world of trains at this free and expansive museum. York Minster: Marvel at the stained glass and impressive architecture of this iconic cathedral. The Shambles: Wander down one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval streets, known for its overhanging buildings. York City Walls: Walk along the historic city walls for FREE and enjoy panoramic views. JORVIK Viking Centre: Experience Viking-age York with this immersive historical attraction.
York Art Gallery: Admire collections ranging from 16th-century masters to modern art.
Food & Drink
York’s Chocolate Story: Take a guided tour and discover the history of chocolate in York. Betty’s Tea Rooms: Indulge in a traditional afternoon tea with a famous “fat rascal” scone. For Families
Yorkshire Museum: Explore exhibits on Roman York, medieval history, and even Jurassic
creatures.
Rowntree Park: A lovely spot to relax, picnic, or enjoy the play areas.
Tips
York Pass: Consider the York Pass for potential discounts on many key attractions.
Walking Tours: Take advantage of the FREE White Rose York walking tour to see the city’s
highlights.
www.visityork.org
