Refined Indian Cuisine With Elegant Precision
Amaya delivers technically precise, refined Indian cuisine with exceptional service and understated elegance, though its restrained flavours and broad menu leave room for a stronger, more distinctive culinary identity.
T aste Asia’s Anglo-Asian answer to TV’s semi-improvised sitcom The Trip with Steve Cooghan and Rob Brydon, George Shaw and Dev Biswal visit Amaya in London’s Belgravia – long regarded as a benchmark for contemporary Indian grilling in London.
Arriving in Victoria in good time, I decided to walk the half a league of so through much of London’s most expensive real estate, rather that navigate the Tube journey to Knightsbridge. This put a keen edge to my appetite and I still at time to meet Dev for a livener in the nearby Lord Tennyson gastro-pub, It is dedicated to the Victorian Poet Laureate who lived briefly in nearby Upper Belgrave Street, writes George Shaw.
What emerged was a dining experience defined by control, technical precision, and a clear commitment to refinement—yet one that also invites reflection on identity and direction.
Arrival & Setting
The welcome was superb—warm, polished, and genuinely hospitable.
The restaurant itself is modern and composed, with an open kitchen that is both pristine and quietly captivating. Watching chefs at work—focused, precise, and unhurried—sets an immediate tone of professionalism and calm authority. For a ringside seat, request a table close by the action: there is elegance here, but it is understated rather than theatrical.
The Dining Room & Structure
There was, however, a noticeable stillness in the room.
With approximately nine guests and a team of eleven staff, the imbalance was striking, which irked which Dev wearing his metaphorical restaurant consultancy hat.
For me it ensured highly attentive service, for Dev it raised broader questions around energy, atmosphere, and commercial rhythm.
Having recently travelled with Dev on one of his The Cook’s Adventures gastro tours of his native Odisha in India, where uncooked food is best avoided, unless you want to avoid collapsing on an internal flight and suffering the indignity of being wheeled down a ramp from an internal flight, we were surprised by the presence of a dedicated salad section.
The salads felt somewhat out of alignment with the rest of the menu. Conceptually—and financially for Dev—it was difficult to fully reconcile its role within an otherwise focused offering.
The Food — Technique Without Excess
The cooking at Amaya is undeniably accomplished.
We began with a minced chicken lettuce parcel—visually refined and delicately balanced. It demonstrated restraint and finesse, though it lacked a defining flavour note that would anchor it in memory.
The tandoori wild Madagascan prawn was a highlight in terms of execution. The cooking was precise, the presentation elegant—showcasing the kitchen’s technical strength.
The black pepper chicken tikka stood out for its exceptional texture—almost melting in the mouth. It was, however, a dish that hinted at greater potential. Dev, now in his metaphorical chef’s toque, suggested that the addition of something more distinctive—suggesting a fragrant element such as kalpasi (stone flower)—could have elevated it from merely excellent to truly memorable.
The Lucknow lamb dum biryani, served with dal tarka and raita, was presented flawlessly. Once again, the emphasis was on subtlety and balance. The flavours were refined, though notably restrained.
We concluded with a rhubarb kulfi—clean, composed, and in keeping with the restaurant’s overarching philosophy of controlled sweetness and elegance.
Service — A Defining Strength
If there is one area where Amaya excels unequivocally, it is front-of-house.
The team, ably led by French born Matr’ d (the title doesn’t take the feminine form) Delphine Delrieu delivered outstanding service—attentive without intrusion, polished without stiffness. There is a clarity of training and a genuine sense of hospitality that underpins the entire experience. Such is Mme Delrieu’s depth of knowledge of Indian cuisine, it was a surprise that she’s never visited the sub-continent, where Pondichéry, Karikal, Yanaon, Mahé, and Chandannagore were controlled by France from the 17th century and not ceded to India until 1954, a full 12 years after the British exited.
Reflections on Identity
There is a conscious move away from overt heat and intensity, favouring subtlety instead. This is entirely valid.
However, what feels missing at times is a stronger sense of distinction—something that defines the restaurant unmistakably. The menu, while extensive and consistently well executed, could perhaps benefit from greater focus.
A tighter selection, combined with the introduction of more fragrant and characterful Indian spices, may allow the kitchen to move from precision alone toward true memorability.
Amaya is a restaurant of clear capability and discipline—one that delivers consistently well across all aspects of the dining experience.
The next step in its evolution may lie not in refinement, which it has already mastered, but in defining a more distinctive voice.
In its current form, Amaya impresses with control and elegance; with a sharper focus and bolder aromatic identity, it has the potential to become truly unforgettable.
Amaya Bar & Grill
Halkin Arcade
Motcomb Street
Belgravia
London SW1X 8JT
www.amaya.biz
