Artistic Influences in Highgate’s Food Scene
Cevdet Mutlu transforms a legacy French restaurant into a Turkish haven, enriching Highgate’s cultural tapestry with passion and exquisite cuisine.
It was a gloriously sunlit day in Highgate, the kind that tempts one to linger outdoors, savouring the rare warmth that London can offer. My journey began with a serendipitous encounter at BROOKSBY, an unassuming yet vibrant cornerstone of the local community, nestled in Pond Square. As Highgate’s oldest newsstand, BROOKSBY is more than what meets the eye. It’s a microcosm of the spirited energy that pulses through this charming area—a town steeped in the artistic and intellectual milieu of authors, musicians, filmmakers, and thinkers.
Behind the counter sat Mario, or as I’ve since named him, “Super Mario,” the heart and soul of BROOKSBY. Beneath a gregarious smile was a mind brimming with anecdotes about Highgate and its eclectic mix of residents. When I stepped in, on the hunt for water and an ice cream to complement the perfect weather, our repartee began innocuously enough: where are you from? What brings you here? Seizing the moment, he invited me to sit beside him outside the newsstand to enjoy my purchase.
Over our conversation, Mario’s extraordinary connection to his customers became apparent. He greeted each visitor with warmth, calling them by name, exchanging quick yet meaningful pleasantries that highlighted his genuine rapport with those who passed through. My profession soon became apparent—it always does—and Mario’s interest piqued. “We should sell your magazines here,” he declared with an enthusiasm that felt immediate yet rehearsed, a mark of a natural businessman. As it happens, BROOKSBY doesn’t limit itself to its little corner of Pond Square. Mario distributes magazines to over 150 newsstands across London. BROOKSBY, it appears, is less a newsstand and more a cultural lighthouse.
It was Mario who redirected my course for the rest of the day. “If you want to really experience what Highgate has to offer,” he said, “you must visit Turkuaz Brasserie. It’s right across the street. London’s best Turkish cuisine—it’s truly something else.” Not one to resist the promise of a memorable meal, I agreed. With a call to his staff to mind the shop, Mario joined me in the short stroll across Pond Square to this culinary highlight.
The Turkish Gem of Highgate
Turkuaz Brasserie impresses from the moment you set eyes on it. With a capacity to seat over 150 guests, its grandeur is subtle yet undeniable. From the cosy interiors that exude a warm Mediterranean charm to the open-air space at its entrance perfect for summertime indulgence, the restaurant sets the tone just right. A carefully landscaped garden and a sleek bar offering a plethora of wines, champagnes, vodkas, and Turkey’s aniseed-scented ritual, Yeni Rakı, complete the experience. It’s opulent, but not ostentatious—refined yet inviting.
Turkuaz Brasserie blends traditional Turkish flavours and Mediterranean charm, offering an inviting ambiance with exceptional culinary experiences.
The restaurant isn’t merely a culinary destination. It has become a gathering space for Highgate’s roster of eminent figures. During its storied tenure, it has hosted visionaries like Terry Gilliam—whose cinematic masterpiece, 12 Monkeys, is sheer genius—and Johann Hari, the bestselling author and TED speaker. Even Rupert Grint of Harry Potter fame has been spotted here. It’s a place where creativity meets conviviality, where artistry and appetite intertwine.
Cevdet Mutlu, the founder and partner of Turkuaz Brasserie, joined us at our table. A dynamic entrepreneur, Mutlu is in the business of reviving lifeless spaces and breathing fresh, Turkish-flavoured life into them. The site of Turkuaz itself is storied, having served as a French restaurant for over 50 years before closing its doors. Under Mutlu’s stewardship, it was reborn as a Mediterranean haven. His entrepreneurial prowess is matched only by his passion for hospitality, something I could feel within moments of speaking to him.
Arrayed before us were dishes that shimmered with colour and promise. Mezes, the heart and soul of Turkish dining, formed the centrepiece. Bowls of cacık (a yoghurt-based dip with minced cucumber and herbs) shared the spotlight with tomato-stewed shrimp and grilled aubergines draped in a smoky, garlicky sauce. Each bite was a revelation. The cacık, creamy and tangy, bore a balance often elusive in such humble dishes, while the tomato-drenched prawns spoke of perfectly executed simplicity. The flavour profiles—bright, herby, and delicate—were as intricate as a Turkish carpet.
When the main course arrived, it came with quiet confidence. The lamb shish kebab—Turkish cuisine’s crown jewel—was divine. The skewered cubes of lamb had been marinated to tender perfection. Charred ever so slightly on the outside, they melted in the mouth, subverting expectations of what barbecued meat can achieve. Every bite carried whispers of smoky paprika and cumin, counterbalanced by the natural sweetness of the expertly cooked lamb. Even after the first plate of lamb kebab disappeared, we ordered another—along with a second helping of cacık. It was the sort of experience you want to last, each morsel elongating the sensory journey.
Mutlu, ever the accomplice in delighting diners, offered insight into each dish, punctuating his words with pride in his native cuisine. He especially enjoys how Turkuaz Brasserie can serve up the vibrancy of a Turkish kitchen alongside London’s cosmopolitan energy. And how could it not, considering the sheer variety of dishes on offer? From elaborate breakfast spreads to hearty dinners and everything in between, Turkuaz plays every note of the symphony that is Turkish gastronomy.
A Highgate Symphony
As I left Turkuaz Brasserie, sated and content, I couldn’t help but reflect on this Highgate symphony—the spontaneity of Mario, inviting me into the rhythm of his community; the taste of cacık still lingering; the memory of lamb so tender and rich it bordered on art. Highgate, with its mingling of old and new, is well represented by these two establishments—a living illustration of how tradition and innovation can sit side by side, feeding both minds and bodies.
Whether it’s through BROOKSBY’s curated sense of place or Turkuaz’s masterful grasp of the culinary arts, my day in Highgate was one I’ll remember. Here, amidst artists, authors, visionaries, and tastemakers, the act of breaking bread becomes more than sustenance—it becomes pure joy.
