Perched above Paddington, CÉ LA VI pairs panoramic London views and polished luxury with inventive Asian-inspired dishes, proving that a restaurant with a gimmick can deliver substance, too.
I never expect much from restaurants with some sort of gimmick—whether it be on a rooftop, or on the waterside, it has some sort of elaborate theme. Whatever it may be, these restaurants always bank on this novelty to keep them afloat, and it often doesn’t fail them. People will always come for the views and experience, even if the food is mediocre.
As such, I was wary of visiting CE LA VI given that it’s perched on the 16th floor above Paddington with panoramic views across London. But from the beginning, I was received with a luxury experience. As soon as you spot the sign telling you you’re in the right place, a man dressed in all black directs you to the lift and accompanies you, walking you across the red carpet and to the host’s stand. They check you in, take your coat, and walk you through the chic surrounds to your table.
The space is sleek, modern, and dark with pops of rich orange and low lighting to complement the stunning views out the floor-to-ceiling windows. If you know what’s good for you, you’ll book the terrace for the best views across London. Even if it’s cold outside, you can still get the full outdoorsy experience in their glass room with plants hanging from the ceiling.
We started with two cocktails as beautiful as they were delicious, striking the perfect balance between performative and functional, yummy and inventive. We also received a variety of unique appetisers, from truffled kabocha squash to tom-yum-spiced edamame to black cod croquettes. The croquettes were surprisingly light despite being fried, with a fresh dill note that went beautifully with the creamy mayo dynamite sauce. The miso aubergine, while simple, was done incredibly well: creamy and savoury with a slight spice. The kabocha squash with truffled tofu cream and fresh black truffles was the standout of the appetisers in my opinion. The squash still had a bite to it, and the mild earthiness went well with the creamy tofu truffle sauce.
Highlights:
- The standout dish: Jumbo prawns over squid ink vermicelli, so tender and rich they could pass for lobster.
- Best appetiser: Truffled kabocha squash with tofu cream and fresh black truffle.
- Worth ordering: Black cod croquettes, miso aubergine, and Chilean sea bass with kimchi yuzu sauce.
- The atmosphere: Sleek interiors, low lighting, and panoramic city views; book the terrace for the best vantage point.
- The cocktails: Beautifully presented, inventive, and genuinely delicious.
- The price: A splurge, with even a side of fried rice costing £15—but the quality largely justifies it.
- The verdict: A rare view-driven restaurant where the food is every bit as memorable as the setting.
The entrées were just as varied and delicious, including a Chilean sea bass, wagyu picanha, and jumbo prawns over squid ink vermicelli. The steak was tender with a dollop of flavourful compound butter. The sea bass was meaty, flaky, and was bathed in a bright kimchi yuzu sauce. My favourite bite of the entire evening, however, was hands down the prawns over vermicelli. If I hadn’t been told I was eating prawns, I would have thought it was lobster. They were incredibly tender and rich, and the noodles were packed with umami and dotted with crunchy peanuts. At this point, I was thoroughly impressed; truffle and squid ink are two ingredients I become hesitant about, as they can be overdone with one drop. However, the chefs at CE LA VI clearly know what they’re doing and had a deft hand with two risky ingredients.
The desserts, while not my personal taste, were executed flawlessly and presented stunningly. The deconstructed raspberry cheesecake had a lovely, crumbly, sugary crust of sorts topped with a tangy cheesecake filling enclosed in a thin white chocolate shell. The pineapple mango tapioca was fruity and light with an incredibly fresh mango puree.
I must give one warning that should be quite expected—this is not a cheap, casual dinner. Their dress code is smart casual, but they provide the experience to match. Yes, a side of fried rice is £15. But yes, it’s darn good.
