An Eccentric Railway Arch Eatery Serves Elevated Comfort Food between Artisan Markets and Craft Beer Bars
Poulet transforms simple rotisserie chicken into a Bermondsey dining experience, pairing tender roast chicken and dripping potatoes with eclectic flavours, quirky décor, and a menu bridging market visitors and beer lovers.
On one side of the Bermondsey railway viaduct, you’ll find Maltby Street Market: a charming artisan foodie destination. On the other side, you’ll find the Bermondsey Beer Mile: a collection of breweries, bars, and bottle shops built into the railway arches themselves. One unique spot can be entered from both sides, meaning they had to learn to cater to two very different crowds.
Poulet’s official entrance is technically on Maltby street, steps from the Maltby Market entrance itself. However, if you’re walking along the beer mile and stumble into Igloo Flowers, you’ll soon end up inside Poulet as well if you simply make your way through the back of the floral shop. The upscale chicken shop began as takeaway only from the flower shop and then grew in accordance with its demand. Today, they share the space 50/50 with Igloo, but their tiny kitchen remains a one-man operation.
Poulet’s concept was inspired by the French concept of poulet rôti—or ‘roast chicken’ that utilises the rotisserie method of slow cooking meat on a rotating spit. Though to be honest, upon walking in, French food was the last thing I was expecting. Poulet’s décor is wildly eccentric, with mismatched tables and chairs, neon signs, multi-coloured string lights, large beach umbrellas (inside!), and EDM-esque party music pouring out of the speakers. I was entirely expecting a Latin American beach grub type concept, not a refined French one.
The menu is equally eclectic, from its ancho chilli and agave chicken tacos or coleslaw and chicken wings to a Greek salad or a cheese board with bleu cheese and fresh grapes. But when the manager, Diogo, explained that the concept was created to appease both the discerning foodies of Maltby Market and the pub crowd from the Beer Mile, it all started to make a bit more sense.
Despite the varied menu selections, I opted for their signature—the one-hour-rotisserie chicken and a glass of their house red sangria. Diogo recommended the ½ chicken meal deal, which comes with potatoes or chips, a side salad, and your choice of chicken jus, buffalo sauce, or garlic mayo. Once I learned that the potatoes are cooked inside the spit oven underneath the chickens, so they sop up all the drippings, that was a no-brainer, as was choosing the chicken jus. Stick with the classics, right?
The sangria, made with red wine, port, Cointreau, peach puree, orange slices, and lemonade was the perfect blend of sweet and sour with a hint of bubbles. It was a great accompaniment to a warm and rich meal.
The chicken arrived glistening with jus. With just one nudge of my fork, it began to fall apart. The skin, though not crispy, held all the best salty goodness to coat the tender, juicy meat inside. Of course, the breast was a tad bit drier than the leg, a nearly unavoidable problem as the dark meat simply takes longer to cook than the white. But the dark meat was perfectly juicy and succulent.
The potatoes were truly the star of the show. The skin still had a bit of snap to it, and they were coated in the glorious chicken drippings and a hefty dusting of salt. The salad was…there. It’s a very simple green salad with slivers of red onion and bell pepper, topped with a basic vinaigrette. The vinegary tang was a nice respite from the rich chicken and potatoes, but it was nothing special.
To my surprise yet again, the only dessert offered is a selection of dainty, refined canelés. As their one-man kitchen is decidedly not equipped for making desserts, these are ordered from Babelle Bakery—a shop that literally only makes canelés. A canelé, shaped a bit like a mini vertical churro (but thicker), originates from Bordeaux, France. Flavoured with rum and vanilla, they have a baked caramelised crust with a soft, slightly custardy centre. At Poulet, each canelé base is the same, but their rotating selection includes a range of toppings, such as lemon curd or pistachio blueberry. They do indeed have a crispy crust and a soft filling, with an ever-so-slight bitterness from the caramelisation that offsets the sweetness in the best way.
Now, was this a fantastic, juicy, well-flavoured chicken with delicious chicken-dripping potatoes? Yes. But could you get a rotisserie chicken and potatoes at Tesco (or even M&S if you’re feeling fancy) and have the same meal for £15 less? Also, yes. I’ve had a debate many times with my friends of whether food is generally better when it’s home cooked, or when you go out to a restaurant; I’ve always been in the restaurant camp. However, while I have an appreciation for simple food done well, it’s hard to know exactly where the line is for too simple. I think if you picked up a premade rotisserie chicken, seasoned your potatoes with chicken salt, and dressed some greens with oil and vinegar, you’d get the same result.
But I also think there’s something to be said for a restaurant that’s able to cater to two very different crowds at once, and I’m sure drunken Beer Mile patrons would have great appreciation for a big hunk of salty, juicy chicken and hearty potatoes—and that pickier eaters or those with a lot of dietary restrictions that often need to cook at home would appreciate the opportunity to come have a fun night out, get a cocktail, and have a basic, easy meal that’s gluten and dairy free.
All that to say, Poulet does its food incredibly well. You’ll just have to answer for yourself if something quite simple is what you’re looking for.
Highlights:
- Located between Maltby Street Market and the Bermondsey Beer Mile, Poulet bridges two distinct crowds: artisan food lovers and craft beer enthusiasts.
- Guests can enter from either side of the railway arches, including through Igloo Flowers, making it one of Bermondsey’s most unusual dining spaces.
- Inspired by the French tradition of poulet rôti, Poulet brings classic rotisserie cooking into a vibrant setting filled with neon lights, colourful décor, and energetic music.
- Despite its growing popularity, the restaurant operates from a tiny kitchen with a one-person cooking operation.
- The signature one-hour rotisserie chicken is the centrepiece, arriving tender, juicy, and coated in rich chicken jus.
- The potatoes, cooked beneath the chickens in the rotisserie oven, absorb the drippings and become one of the meal’s standout elements.
- The house red sangria offers a refreshing mix of red wine, port, Cointreau, peach puree, orange, and lemonade.
- Desserts focus on elegant Bordeaux-style canelés, featuring caramelised shells, soft custardy centres, and rotating toppings such as lemon curd and pistachio blueberry.
- While the food is beautifully executed, the review questions whether simple comfort dishes justify restaurant prices when similar versions can be recreated at home.
- Poulet succeeds by offering something for everyone: a relaxed destination for food lovers, a satisfying stop for Beer Mile visitors, and an accessible meal for diners with dietary restrictions.
