Fresh British Seafood, Fearless Flavours, and Sustainability in Perfect Balance
From uniquely topped oysters to an unforgettable crab taco and exceptional desserts, Faber delivers sustainably sourced seafood with creativity, balance, and warmth, making it one of London’s most compelling dining destinations.
W hat started as two friends delivering seafood and cocktails on their bikes during the COVID lockdown has now become a stunning full-service restaurant serving an entirely fresh, sustainably and locally sourced menu in Hammersmith. In fact, you can look at a tasteful map of exactly where their ingredients hail from while you dine.
When founders Matt and Anthony began their journey, they were borrowing a pub kitchen to cook in and delivering their fresh meals via bicycle. As demand grew, they took over the pub itself as they continued to learn and hone their skills. Today, they own Faber Wine and Seafood Restaurant, named for the fish called Zeus Faber—or as you may know it, John Dory. Faber is the Latin word for ‘Smith’, which is the most common English name. Matt and Anthony loved the connotation, as they wanted their food to be accessible to all and give ‘everyday people the opportunity to be part of our journey.’ And as a bonus, John Dory is a fish that can be caught sustainably from British shores.
‘We’re fanatical about the ingredients on your plate.’ Faber’s menu is always changing based on what their partner fishing fleets bring fresh to London on a daily basis. There’s a storm on the coast? Certain fish populations haven’t migrated or populated as usual? Chef Ollie is prepared to pull a 180 and adapt his dishes at any time. So the way I look at it, it would be acceptable to go to this restaurant every week because it’ll be different each time—but based on what I tasted, I trust it will always be outstanding.
Faber’s light and airy interiors reflect the sleek, fresh food they’re bringing out of the kitchen. And the air con is surely a nice touch; nobody wants to smell warm shellfish. The whitewashed brick walls, dusty pink tiled bar, and marbled tables adorned with flickering candles may make you feel like you should have dressed for the occasion. Though I wished I had come in a little black dress and heels to mysteriously sit alone at the bar, the staff made me feel nothing short of entirely welcome even in my sundress and dingy white sneakers.
Highlights
- Two friends’ lockdown seafood delivery business has evolved into one of Hammersmith’s standout restaurants.
- Sustainably and locally sourced British seafood changes daily according to the catch.
- Chef Ollie embraces seasonal unpredictability, adapting the menu around the freshest available ingredients.
- Oysters are exceptional, elevated by inventive toppings like white wine and green apple granita.
- Crispy oyster brioche is a playful, pub-inspired standout.
- Mini Szechuan crab tacos are the meal’s most memorable small plate.
- Perfectly glazed pork belly proves the kitchen excels beyond seafood.
- Whole John Dory is expertly filleted tableside and beautifully balanced with chilli glaze and herb yoghurt.
- Desserts rival the savoury courses, especially the signature honey tart.
- Stylish yet welcoming dining room creates an approachable fine-dining atmosphere.
- Prices are premium, but the ingredient quality and execution largely justify the cost.
- Verdict: A sophisticated seafood restaurant where sustainability and exceptional cooking go hand in hand.
Starting with a variety of oysters is a must, obviously. It’s a true test of any seafood restaurant, as oysters are incredibly unforgiving in their freshness. And Faber started strong right out of the gate. When the oysters are this fresh, all they need is a squeeze of lemon or a dash of mignonette. But Faber’s chef, an overachiever if I’ve ever seen one, tops their oysters with accompaniments you couldn’t even dream of, like a curry leaf kumquat sauce or—my personal favourite—a white wine and green apple granita. It’s cold, refreshing, sweet, and sour all in one bite and pairs beautifully with the smooth oyster underneath. One of the specials of the day, uniquely presented on a human-sized chalkboard brought around to each table as you order, was crispy oysters with chive ranch served on toasted brioche. With their shredded lettuce and slice of tomato, they look like baby BLTs, and taste exactly how they look. But don’t be mistaken, I mean this as a compliment. This is simple food done astoundingly well. Even oyster haters would enjoy this dish, as it’s reminiscent of a great pub sandwich without a hint of fishiness.
We decided to order an array of small plates and share one entrée, a strategy I wish I could employ at every meal. No one can convince me that only getting to eat one entrée is superior to ordering six or seven little plates and getting to try everything. Manager Frankie helped guide us through the menu, as it was a task and a half to narrow our choices down. After the oysters, we enjoyed trout tartare, lobster croquettes, mini-Szechuan crab tacos, and a glazed pork belly skewer. The tartare features a trio of trout, including long slices of loin and a chopped trout belly/roe mixture. It’s topped with a drizzle of parsley oil, allergen-free soy sauce, horseradish tofu cream, and a dusting of nori powder. This was our most disappointing bite of the night, but me saying that doesn’t mean much because it was still not bad by any measure. The fish was so fresh and velvety that it upheld the dish, and the roe added a nice texture, but I did wish it had more zing. Despite all the accompanying sauces, it was a bit bland and desperately called for a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt at minimum. However, it was all back uphill from there. While we were missing more substantial lobster chunks, the lobster croquettes had a decadent, lemony filling and an impossibly thin and crispy exterior. The pork belly may seem out of left field, but I had to try something that didn’t come from the ocean to test if the kitchen is a one-trick pony. They are decidedly not; this was one of the best plates of the meal. The glaze formed a delicious, charred crust on the outside while maintaining an extremely succulent and tender interior. The unctuous shallot mayo only added to the richness, but in the best, indulgent kind of way. My personal highlight, though, was the cutest little tacos you’ve ever seen. I couldn’t help but wonder if the shell was secretly just an ice cream cone, as it had a subtle brown sugary sweetness. But it was a flawless complement to the delicate Dorset white crab inside, balanced even further by dots of Szechuan pepper on top that were not overpowering in the slightest.
For our main, how could we order anything but the daily special whole John Dory? As it came in all its glory, Frankie kindly offered to fillet it for us at our table, striking up genial conversation while she sliced effortlessly. Though a lot of the menu seemed to have some Asian influence, this special of the day had a Middle Eastern flair with its chilli glaze and herb yoghurt dressing. If I were asked to describe this restaurant in one word, it would be ‘balanced.’ Throughout the meal, my companion and I kept noting how balanced every single dish was, and this was no exception. A spice comes through from the chilli but is quickly cooled by the minty yoghurt chutney on top, which all melds stunningly with the flaky white fish. I tend to avoid fish skin especially if it isn’t super crispy, but the John Dory melts in your mouth, and you truly don’t even notice that you’re eating skin. At Frankie’s suggestion, we paired the fish with a quartered and charred hispi cabbage. And yet again, it balanced the fish perfectly with its hearty green crunch and subtle sweetness.
Perhaps my biggest surprise of the evening was the dessert menu. We couldn’t decide what was best, so we ended up with three desserts despite being already full to the brim. Little did I know these would end up being the best three desserts I’ve had in a long time. First was the honey tart, a staple that’s been on their menu since day one. This is essentially honey-flavoured crème brûlée in a tart shell—and it’s unbelievable. The tart shell is super soft, the filling is luxuriously creamy, and it’s balanced perfectly by the dollop of sour crème fraiche on the side. Next was the ricotta ice cream, a concept that definitely intrigued me. I’ve had cheese-based ice creams before, but this was the best by a landslide. It creates a flawless balance of sweet, sour, savoury, and salty with bits of crystallised ricotta inside and shaved, salted ricotta on top. I do think I would prefer it to accompany something, perhaps a sweet poached pear, but nonetheless it was uniquely amazing. While we enjoyed these first two puddings, the brown butter madeleines were in the oven. They arrived hot and fluffy with a dainty crust at the edges. The warm nuttiness was, again, balanced! by the tart lemon curd on the side. Whoever their pastry chef is hidden back there is a serious genius, because these desserts are a revelation.
Their website does note that the owners wanted to create a ‘welcoming, comfortable, and affordable experience’ for ‘everyday people.’ While they nailed the first two on the head, I’m not sure I can agree that a taco the size of my thumb for £7 or a single pork belly skewer for £16 can be called ‘affordable’ for the average Joe. I have major respect for their sourcing ethics, and it’s clear why these prices are what they are, but let’s call a spade a spade.
However, the quality of the food and the atmosphere match the price tag. And for the non-seafood fanatics, you’ll find sharing plates like Mangalitza ham and tomato and ricotta, or mains like poached leeks and burrata, oyster mushrooms with puffed rice and onion caramel, or a crispy duck and broad bean salad. Even if you just wanted to come for a side of hand cut chips and a honey tart, I wouldn’t judge you. In fact, you might spot me at the next table doing exactly the same.
